A blog about smells and fragrances, notes and accords, brands and marketing...

Tuesday, February 2, 2010

And what if passion was a bunch of violets?

The Violet ... Yes, I give a capital letter to this young lady. In March, it blooms, and marvels the curious ones. You need to understand, its absolute is quite a rare material! And it hides many facets. Between ionones, which give this little floral, fruity raspberry, suave and powdery side, and Nonadienal this aqueous, almost cucumber, side which provides to the absolute of violet this green note so characteristic. Enough to seduce more than one! It seems that the scent of violets would have aphrodisiac qualities...! Shyness, modesty and secret love, these are all the symbols of that lady in the language of flowers. Therefore, Ladies, beware of the young man who will offer you a bunch of violets, this could be a declaration of love hidden behind a purple cloth...
Yes, but what are the fragrances with Violet? Here is a little presentation in a few families of variations of this unique floral note.

The Violet in the heart of floriental structures can show sometimes a sweet, sometimes a powdery facet.
The sweet Violet has that little something crispy and crunchy. A sweet, fresh, delicious and fruity Violet. When I feel that note, I think of the sugary petals of violet decorating big tasty cakes, violet candies, or even the blackcurrant-violet Macaroon by Ladurée. Besides, the brand created 2 years ago a range of sweet cosmetics, in collaboration with Sephora. We also think about Lolita Lempicka fragrance, combining violet with liquorice and cherry, or the Violet Angel Garden of Stars by Thierry Mugler, who happens to keep this sweet violet tone, despite an oriental and patchouli base note.
The powdery Violet displays a more opulent side, a little classical, sometimes reminiscent of old cosmetics. It is found in Insolence by Guerlain, with a red fruits accord on top. And how can I forget to mention Flower by Kenzo, where the violet takes part in a complex floral accord? Alberto Morillas created an imaginary smell: the smell of the poppy. Between Rose and Jasmine, we still recognize the sweet and powdery violet signature.

The green Violet is a less obvious facet but which characterizes the flower. Stronger, but twith a sensual characteritics, this note reminds immediately the absolute of violet leaves. Grey Flannel, the fragrance by Geoffrey Beene, was the precursor of this note, followed by the masterpiece that is Fahrenheit by Dior, created by perfumer Jean-Louis Sieuzac and Michel Almairac. A synthetic violet, carried by woody, musky and leather notes.

The rosy Violet is a facet that is found in many accords made by Sophia Grosjman, a virtuoso of the Rose, which has always been able to create floral accords with extreme tenderness, from the sweetness of Trésor by Lancôme, to the femininity of Paris by Yves Saint-Laurent, through the freshness of Eternity Women by Calvin Klein ... But rosy violet may also leave a small taste of lipstick, who remains on the taste buds when biting the lip innocently. This applies to Lipstick Rose by Frederic Malle, where rose and violet team up again with charm and delight.

But the Violet does not only inspire perfumers. Edouard Manet and Emil Nolde got inspired by this flower and representated it in paintings. One in an almost erotic way, putting a bunch of violets in the cleavage of Berthe Morisot, the other in a more poetic and emotional way.
Edouard Manet - Bouquet de violettes (1872); Berthe Morisot au bouquet de violettes (1872)

Emil Nolde - Violette blumen (1907); Violas (1908); Gardenflowers with Violet and Yellow Buds (1950) 

Not to mention Luis Mariano who sang: "Love is a bunch of violets, love is sweeter than this flowers, When happiness waves and stops, you should take its hand, without waiting until tomorrow "...  

Yes, it is true that, by its symbolism and its various interpretations, Violet has always been represented so naive, sweet or innocent. But why the Violet could not be provocative, temptress, glamorous... a fatal violet somehow! By giving to its olfactive character something strong, torrid and burning, coming close to masculinity. That makes me think of Marlene Dietrich, who pinned on her dress a bunch of violets, on the level of her crotch, at the premiere of The Blue Angel, in 1930 in Berlin. A daring violet who does not try to seduce anymore, but assumes its full sensuality ... Between Black Violet by Tom Ford and the famous Fahrenheit by Dior, that's a new feminine territory that could be worked on.

© Photo 'Violet macro'

1 comment:

  1. If you are fascinated by violets, get a pretty box of violet candies for the purchase of a 50mL Eau de Toilette ‘La Violette’ (at a price of 65€), in the Annick Goutal shops (depending on stock availability) until February 14.

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