The galbanum is one of these raw materials that are used for a little while in perfumery. It is true that its green and resinous profile fits with traditional chypre accords. This note scored in the 40’s and the 70’s, with fragrances like Miss Dior (47) or Vent Vert by Balmain (47) and Drakkar by Guy Laroche (the predecessor of Drakkar noir, created in 72 and now vanished), Cristalle by Chanel (74) and Chanel 19 (70) or Chamade by Guerlain (69).
Where to find it? Definitely in chypre accords, but also in green florals, for hyacinth reconstitutions for instance, or in woody accords for masculine fragrances.
How to recognize it? First of all, thanks to its green coniferous note, but also thanks to its small terpenic side, and even sometimes thanks to its little ‘garlicky’ note. Considering the resinous part of the note, no wonder: it's the resin of the root that is used to extract the galbanum essence. A green signature, fugitive but intense. A one of a kind raw material, that marks easily the olfactory memory.
And now, after several years of absence, Mr Galbanum is back in significantly fresher and more transparent accords. A Scent by Issey Miyake, Eau de Fleur de Capucine by Chloe and Untitled by Maison Martin Margiela are the latest examples. Fragrances more oriented towards a niche market, and with marketing mixes rather minimalists: sober packaging, ad limited to a packshot... This green note may not be perceived as easily accessible.
Yet these compositions are a bit different from the olfactory structures that usually dressed the galbanum, even if they can recall quite classical compositions in terms of green and citrus freshness.
Here is a raw material just waiting to gain access in a softer and more caressing trail. A little bit like the incarnation of a vegetal fairy, a green cocoon. A universe to develop, that would make me think of the universe of the singer Emilie Simon ... Because this is what we need these times: a reassuring and caring nature.
Where to find it? Definitely in chypre accords, but also in green florals, for hyacinth reconstitutions for instance, or in woody accords for masculine fragrances.
How to recognize it? First of all, thanks to its green coniferous note, but also thanks to its small terpenic side, and even sometimes thanks to its little ‘garlicky’ note. Considering the resinous part of the note, no wonder: it's the resin of the root that is used to extract the galbanum essence. A green signature, fugitive but intense. A one of a kind raw material, that marks easily the olfactory memory.
And now, after several years of absence, Mr Galbanum is back in significantly fresher and more transparent accords. A Scent by Issey Miyake, Eau de Fleur de Capucine by Chloe and Untitled by Maison Martin Margiela are the latest examples. Fragrances more oriented towards a niche market, and with marketing mixes rather minimalists: sober packaging, ad limited to a packshot... This green note may not be perceived as easily accessible.
Yet these compositions are a bit different from the olfactory structures that usually dressed the galbanum, even if they can recall quite classical compositions in terms of green and citrus freshness.Here is a raw material just waiting to gain access in a softer and more caressing trail. A little bit like the incarnation of a vegetal fairy, a green cocoon. A universe to develop, that would make me think of the universe of the singer Emilie Simon ... Because this is what we need these times: a reassuring and caring nature.
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